Home Systems Inspection FAQ

Key Takeaways

  • Standard home inspections cover visible and accessible system components, not hidden or concealed elements
  • HVAC, electrical, and plumbing systems typically have 15-30 year lifespans depending on maintenance
  • Specialized inspections like sewer scopes and HVAC evaluations go beyond standard inspection scope
  • Age alone doesn't determine condition; maintenance history matters more for system longevity
  • Inspector findings should be verified with licensed specialists for repair estimates

These are the questions I hear most often about home systems during inspections. The answers come from years of evaluating HVAC, electrical, plumbing, and other mechanical systems in real houses.

What does a home inspector check on the HVAC system?

Home inspectors evaluate the heating and cooling system by testing function, checking equipment age and condition, and looking for safety concerns. We verify that the furnace heats and the AC cools. We examine the heat exchanger for visible cracks, check the combustion process, and evaluate the venting system.

We don't disassemble equipment or perform specialized testing like combustion analysis. For a more thorough evaluation, especially on older systems, consider hiring an HVAC contractor for a detailed inspection.

How old is too old for a furnace?

There's no magic number where a furnace becomes too old. The Department of Energy estimates average furnace lifespan at 15-20 years, but well-maintained systems often run 25-30 years. I've seen 30-year-old furnaces in better condition than neglected 10-year-old units.

Age plus condition determines remaining life. A 20-year-old furnace with annual service records, clean burners, and an intact heat exchanger may have years left. The same age furnace with no maintenance history, rust, and combustion problems is due for replacement.

Should I worry about an electrical panel that's 30 years old?

Age alone isn't concerning for electrical panels. Panels installed in the 1990s with quality equipment can last indefinitely with no issues. What matters is the panel brand, condition, and whether it meets your current electrical needs.

Concerns arise with specific brands known for defects (Federal Pacific, Zinsco), undersized panels that can't handle modern loads, or panels with visible damage, corrosion, or improper wiring. A 30-year-old 200-amp panel with a reputable brand and no defects is generally fine.

What are Federal Pacific panels and why are they a problem?

Federal Pacific Electric (FPE) panels with Stab-Lok breakers were manufactured from the 1950s through the 1980s. Studies found that these breakers fail to trip under overcurrent conditions at rates far exceeding industry standards. When breakers don't trip, wires can overheat and cause fires.

The Consumer Product Safety Commission investigated but never issued a formal recall. Most inspectors and electricians recommend replacement. Many insurance companies require it. Replacement typically costs $1,800-3,000.

What does low water pressure indicate?

Low water pressure has several possible causes. In older homes with galvanized steel pipes, it often indicates internal corrosion restricting flow. This typically requires repiping. Pressure below 40 PSI at the main shut-off suggests a supply problem, either from the utility or from a failing pressure regulator.

If pressure is low at one fixture but fine elsewhere, the issue is likely a clogged aerator, partially closed valve, or localized pipe problem. Whole-house low pressure is more concerning and warrants investigation.

Is polybutylene pipe really that bad?

Polybutylene has a documented history of premature failure. The pipe degrades from the inside when exposed to chlorine in municipal water supplies. Failures occur without warning and can cause significant water damage.

Not every polybutylene installation fails. Some have operated for 30+ years without problems. But the risk is real and unpredictable. Many insurers charge higher premiums or require disclosure. Repiping costs $4,000-10,000 depending on home size and is worth considering for peace of mind and improved insurability.

How long do water heaters last?

Tank water heaters typically last 8-12 years. Tankless units can last 20+ years with proper maintenance. Lifespan depends heavily on water quality, usage patterns, and maintenance.

Signs of impending failure include rust-colored water, rumbling sounds from sediment buildup, visible corrosion on the tank, and declining hot water capacity. An 8-year-old water heater with these symptoms may fail soon. A 12-year-old unit with none of them might have years left.

What is a GFCI and where should I have them?

GFCI stands for Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter. These devices protect against electrical shock by cutting power instantly when they detect current leaking to ground through an unintended path, like through a person.

Current code requires GFCIs in bathrooms, kitchens (countertop outlets and within 6 feet of sinks), garages, outdoors, unfinished basements, and near laundry sinks. Older homes may not have GFCIs in all required locations. While not mandatory to upgrade, adding GFCIs is an inexpensive safety improvement.

Do I need a sewer scope inspection?

Sewer scope inspections are strongly recommended for homes over 25-30 years old, homes with large trees near sewer lines, and any home where slow drains or sewer issues have been noted. The cost is $100-400. Sewer line replacement can cost $5,000-25,000.

Standard home inspections don't evaluate underground sewer lines. A camera inspection reveals root intrusion, pipe damage, bellied sections, and other problems not visible any other way. For older homes, this is one of the best investments in the inspection process.

What does double-tapped breaker mean?

A double-tapped breaker has two wires connected to a terminal designed for only one wire. This is a common electrical defect that can cause loose connections, arcing, and potential fire hazards. Most standard breakers are rated for single wires only.

The fix involves adding a new breaker, installing a tandem breaker (if the panel allows), or adding a sub-panel. Cost ranges from $100-500 depending on the solution. Some newer breakers are rated for two wires, so double-tapping isn't always a defect, but it usually is.

How do I find out how old the HVAC system is?

The manufacture date is encoded in the serial number on the equipment's data plate. Every manufacturer uses a different format. A.O. Smith and similar brands use the first four digits as year and week. Rheem uses month and year. Others use letter codes.

Search online for "[manufacturer name] serial number decoder" to find the specific format. Most experienced inspectors can read common brands without looking them up. The data plate is usually inside the furnace cabinet door or on the side of the outdoor AC unit.

What's the difference between a home inspector and an HVAC technician evaluation?

Home inspectors are generalists who evaluate all visible and accessible components of a house. We test function and identify obvious defects. We don't disassemble equipment or perform specialized testing.

HVAC technicians can perform combustion analysis, refrigerant pressure testing, detailed heat exchanger inspection with cameras, and component-level electrical testing. They provide repair estimates and can address issues found. For systems 15+ years old or when the home inspection raises concerns, an HVAC evaluation provides more detailed information about remaining useful life.

Are galvanized pipes a deal breaker?

Galvanized steel pipes aren't automatically a deal breaker, but they do indicate a significant future expense. These pipes were standard before 1960 and have an expected lifespan of 40-70 years. Most galvanized piping in older homes is at or past end of life.

Signs of failing galvanized pipes include reduced water pressure, rust-colored water, visible corrosion at joints, and leaks. Repiping costs $4,000-15,000 depending on home size and accessibility. Factor this cost into your purchase decision for homes with galvanized plumbing.

What does it mean when the inspector says the water heater has no expansion tank?

Thermal expansion tanks are required by code in closed plumbing systems, which is most systems with backflow preventers or check valves. When water heats, it expands. With nowhere for the expanded water to go, pressure builds and stresses pipes, fittings, and the water heater itself.

An expansion tank provides a cushion for this pressure. Installing one costs $100-300. While not every system needs one (open systems don't), the inspector notes its absence because code requires it in most situations.

Should I get specialized inspections beyond the standard home inspection?

Specialized inspections are worth considering depending on the house. Common add-ons include:

  • Sewer scope ($100-400): Highly recommended for homes 25+ years old
  • HVAC evaluation ($100-300): Recommended for systems 15+ years old
  • Electrical panel inspection ($100-200): Recommended for concerning brands or conditions
  • Radon testing ($100-200): Recommended in areas with known radon presence
  • Mold testing ($200-600): When moisture damage or musty odors are present

Your home inspector can recommend which specialized inspections make sense based on what we find during the standard inspection.