Start With the Summary Page
Every inspection report worth reading has a summary page at the front. Some inspectors call it an "Executive Summary" or "Major Findings." Whatever the name, this is where you should start.
The summary page lists everything the inspector considers significant. Not every item in the report. Just the ones that need attention, further evaluation, or repair. If something made it to the summary page, the inspector is telling you: pay attention to this.
When I wrote reports, I organized my summaries into three categories: safety concerns, major defects, and items needing further evaluation. Some inspectors use different systems. But the concept is the same. The summary tells you what actually matters.
What Usually Makes the Summary
Safety issues always make the summary. Things like missing smoke detectors, exposed wiring, or gas leaks. These need immediate attention regardless of whether you buy the house.
Major defects make the summary too. A failing roof, foundation cracks showing structural movement, HVAC systems at end of life. These are the big-ticket items that affect your budget and negotiation.
"Further evaluation recommended" items also appear here. When an inspector writes this, they're saying: I found something concerning, but I'm not the specialist who should diagnose it. Get an expert to look at this specific thing.
What Usually Doesn't Make the Summary
Cosmetic issues rarely appear on summary pages. Chipped paint, minor carpet stains, outdated light fixtures. These might be mentioned in the body of the report, but they're not summary material.
Minor maintenance items often get left off too. A slow drain, a running toilet, a door that sticks. These are easy fixes that any homeowner can handle.
Normal wear and tear for the home's age won't be on the summary. A 20-year-old water heater nearing end of life is expected, not alarming. The inspector might mention it, but in context.
Understanding Rating Systems
Most inspection reports use some kind of rating system. The specific terms vary by inspector and software, but the concepts are universal. Understanding these ratings helps you prioritize.
I used a four-tier system in my reports: Satisfactory, Monitor, Repair, and Safety Concern. Other inspectors might use colors, numbers, or different words. But they're all trying to communicate the same thing: how serious is this, and what should you do about it?
Satisfactory (or Acceptable)
This means the component is functioning as intended. It's not perfect, but it's doing its job. A roof rated "satisfactory" might have some wear but isn't leaking and has years of life left. An electrical panel rated "satisfactory" is safe and up to code for when it was installed.
Satisfactory doesn't mean new. It means adequate for current use.
Monitor
"Monitor" is the most misunderstood rating. Buyers often think it means "watch this thing fail slowly and then spend lots of money." That's not quite right.
Monitor means: this isn't a problem now, but it could become one. Keep an eye on it. A crack in the foundation that shows no signs of active movement might get a "monitor" rating. The inspector is saying: it exists, it's stable, but check it periodically.
When I used "monitor," I was telling the buyer: you don't need to fix this before moving in, but don't forget about it either. Put it on your home maintenance radar.
Repair
Repair means exactly what it sounds like. This needs to be fixed. The timing depends on severity, but action is required.
Some repairs are urgent. A leaking water heater needs attention before it floods your basement. Other repairs can wait a few months. A sticking window is a repair item, but it's not an emergency.
My advice: for anything rated "repair," get a quote from a contractor before closing. You want to know the actual cost, not a guess.
Safety Concern
This is the most serious rating. Safety concerns need immediate attention regardless of the sale. Double-tapped breakers, improper dryer venting, carbon monoxide risks. These items go straight to the summary page and often include language about addressing them "before occupancy."
I saw buyers try to negotiate credits for safety items. My honest advice: don't. Just get them fixed. A $200 electrical repair isn't worth risking your family's safety over.
Reading the Main Report Sections
After the summary, you'll find the detailed sections. These cover every aspect of the home the inspector could evaluate. Most reports follow a similar structure, moving from outside to inside, top to bottom.
You don't need to memorize every section. But understanding what's included helps you navigate the document.
Exterior Sections
Exterior sections cover the roof, siding, windows, doors, and the ground around the house. You'll see discussion of grading and drainage, which affects how water moves away from (or toward) your foundation.
I always paid close attention to exterior sections because water intrusion causes most major home problems. Poor drainage leads to wet basements. Damaged flashing leads to roof leaks. Cracked caulking leads to water in walls.
If your report mentions grading that slopes toward the house, take that seriously. It's usually an easy fix, but ignoring it creates expensive problems.
Structural Sections
The structure section covers the foundation, framing, and load-bearing components. This is where you'll see discussion of cracks, settlement, and any signs of movement.
Not all cracks are problems. Hairline cracks in basement walls are common and usually harmless. Stair-step cracks in brick, horizontal cracks in foundation walls, or cracks with displacement are more concerning.
According to the American Society of Home Inspectors (ASHI), foundation issues appear in about 25% of inspection reports, but only a small fraction require significant repair. Context matters enormously here.
Electrical Systems
Electrical sections cover the panel, wiring, outlets, and safety devices. You'll see notes about grounding, GFCI protection in wet areas, and the overall condition of the system.
Older homes often have electrical notes that sound scary but are actually just descriptions of older technology. Fuse boxes aren't inherently dangerous. Ungrounded two-prong outlets are common in homes built before the 1960s. These are worth knowing about, but they're not emergencies.
What is concerning: evidence of DIY electrical work, double-tapped breakers, aluminum wiring connections, or panels on recall lists.
Plumbing Systems
Plumbing sections discuss supply lines, drain lines, water heater, and fixtures. You'll learn about pipe materials, water pressure, and any signs of leaks.
Galvanized pipes in older homes often get mentioned. They do corrode over time and eventually need replacement. But "galvanized pipes present" isn't the same as "galvanized pipes failing." Ask about current water pressure and any evidence of active corrosion.
Water heater age always gets noted. Most last 10-15 years. An older unit isn't a crisis, but it's a budget item to plan for.
HVAC Systems
Heating, ventilation, and air conditioning get their own section. The inspector tests operation, checks for obvious problems, and notes equipment age.
HVAC equipment ages faster in some climates than others. A 15-year-old furnace in Minnesota works differently than one in Arizona. The report should note age and condition, not just age alone.
Ductwork gets covered here too. Disconnected ducts in attics or crawlspaces are common findings. Usually easy fixes, but they affect efficiency.
Interior Sections
Interior sections cover walls, ceilings, floors, doors, windows, and built-in appliances. This is where you'll see the longest lists of items, because there's simply more stuff to look at.
Most interior findings are minor. Sticking doors, cracked window seals, slow drains. These are maintenance items, not major defects.
Stains on ceilings get attention because they might indicate past or present leaks. But a stain doesn't always mean an active problem. It might be from an issue that was fixed years ago.
Understanding Inspector Language
Inspectors write in a specific way that can confuse buyers. We're trained to be precise, but that precision sometimes sounds worse than reality.
Why Reports Sound Negative
Inspection reports focus on deficiencies. That's the job. We're not there to tell you how lovely the kitchen cabinets are. We're there to find problems.
This means a perfectly good house can have a report that reads like a horror novel. Every report I ever wrote had dozens of items. Even on new construction. Even on well-maintained homes. There's always something to note.
Don't let the volume of items overwhelm you. Focus on categories. How many safety concerns? How many major defects? How much is just maintenance?
Common Phrases Decoded
"Further evaluation recommended by a qualified specialist" means I saw something outside my expertise. I'm not an HVAC technician, structural engineer, or roofer. When I recommend further evaluation, I'm being honest about the limits of a general inspection.
"Appeared functional at time of inspection" is careful language. I tested it once. It worked. I can't guarantee it'll work forever. This is standard language, not a red flag.
"Evidence of previous repair" means someone fixed something before. Sometimes that's good news. Sometimes it raises questions. Context matters.
"Typical for age and type of construction" is my way of saying: this is normal for a house this old. Not a defect. Just reality.
Using Photos Effectively
Modern inspection reports include photos. Lots of them. My reports typically had 100-200 images. These photos are more valuable than most buyers realize.
Photos serve multiple purposes. They show you exactly what the inspector saw. They document conditions for future reference. And they help contractors understand issues without visiting the property.
Location Photos
Inspectors include photos showing where things are, not just what they look like. That electrical panel photo isn't just showing the panel. It's showing you it's in the garage, behind the door, where you'll need to find it during an emergency.
Water shut-off locations, main gas valves, HVAC equipment. These photos are reference material for homeownership, not just the sale.
Defect Photos
When something needs attention, you'll see a photo. Sometimes several. These help you understand severity.
I once had a buyer panic over a "foundation crack" note. When she looked at the photo, she saw a hairline crack smaller than a pencil tip. Different reaction than if I'd described a two-inch horizontal crack with displacement.
Use the photos. They're worth more than the text sometimes.
What to Do After Reading
You've read the report. You understand the ratings. Now what?
Make a Priority List
I recommend creating three lists:
List one: Items that must be addressed before closing or as part of negotiations. Usually safety concerns and major defects.
List two: Items to address in the first year of ownership. Repairs that aren't urgent but shouldn't be ignored.
List three: Maintenance items and future budget considerations. The water heater that's aging. The roof that has 5-7 years left. Things to save for.
Get Specialist Quotes
For anything on list one, get actual quotes from contractors before negotiating. "Foundation issues" could mean $500 or $50,000. You need to know which.
My neighbor Linda learned this the hard way. She asked for a $10,000 credit based on "HVAC concerns" in her inspection report. Turned out the actual repair was $800. She probably could have gotten more if she'd known the real number.
Call contractors. Get written estimates. Then negotiate from knowledge, not fear.
Ask Your Inspector Questions
Most inspectors will answer follow-up questions. We want you to understand the report. If something is confusing, ask.
When I got calls from confused buyers, I was happy to explain. "That crack in section 3.2, how worried should I actually be?" Great question. Let's talk through it.
You paid for the inspection. The report is yours. Use it fully.
Common Mistakes Buyers Make
After 12 years of inspections, I saw the same mistakes repeatedly.
Panicking Over Volume
A 50-item report isn't necessarily worse than a 20-item report. I once inspected a brand-new construction home and found 62 items. Most were minor punch-list things. The total repair cost was under $1,000.
I also inspected a seemingly perfect home and found 15 items, including a failed foundation that required $40,000 in repairs.
Count the serious items, not the total items.
Ignoring Monitor Items
"Monitor" doesn't mean "ignore forever." It means "keep watching." I've seen buyers completely forget about monitor items, then act surprised when problems develop years later.
Put monitor items on a calendar. Check them annually. That foundation crack that was stable in 2024 might look different in 2027. Catching changes early is the whole point.
Skipping the Details
Some buyers read only the summary and assume they've got the full picture. They miss context, photos, and explanations that change how they understand findings.
Read the whole report at least once. Then use the summary as a reference document.
Questions to Ask Yourself
As you work through the report, keep these questions in mind:
How many items are safety concerns vs. maintenance items? A report with two safety concerns and 40 maintenance items is very different from one with 20 safety concerns and two maintenance items.
What's the total estimated cost to address the must-fix items? Get real quotes, not guesses.
Do the findings change your comfort with the purchase price? If the house needs $15,000 in repairs, does the price still make sense?
Are there any deal-breakers for you personally? Some people can't handle ongoing foundation monitoring. Others don't mind. Know your own tolerance.
What will this house need in the next 5-10 years? The report gives you clues. Aging systems, wear patterns, maintenance needs. Plan for them.
The Bottom Line
A home inspection report is a snapshot, not a prediction. It tells you what one trained observer found on one day. It doesn't guarantee future performance or catch everything hidden behind walls.
But it's an incredibly useful tool if you know how to read it. Focus on the summary first. Understand the rating system. Use the photos. Get quotes before negotiating. And don't panic over the length.
Every house has issues. The question isn't whether problems exist. It's whether you understand them, can afford to address them, and can live with what remains. A good inspection report helps you answer those questions honestly.
When I think back to that scared buyer on the couch with a 47-page report, I wish I'd known what I know now. The house was fine. The report was thorough. I just didn't have the context to understand what I was reading.
Now you do.